![]() He built zucchini baskets cradling tiny threads of sea moss under a sun-dried mussel, beside melt-in-the-mouth house-smoked ham. He married foie gras and oysters with glistening riesling gélée and edible rose petals. My favourite meal of 2003 was Susur's Chinese New Year dinner. Where once reigned lobster, we're now eating ultracrisp fish with house-made tartar sauce. The new main courses are comfort food incarnate: plump moist chicken breast pink 'n' perfect calves' liver, tender veal scallops blessed with marvellous lemon sauce, and moist braised rabbit with polenta gnocchi. Le tout Rosedale loves mussels with white wine and leeks, and ungreasy spring rolls stuffed with fresh scallop. The new menu is French bistro, 30 per cent cheaper than before, and scrumptious. Why no more? "Because," the maestro says, "this is all we can handle and do it right."Ĭlever Georges Gurnon, the charming Gallic sprite, has taken Pastis down a few notches to excellent effect. There are only 25 seats at tables, plus bar seating. Mediterranean fish soup is a Provençal purée sporting two big fat scallops, each wrapped in a snowy thin filet of fluke and an emerald cabbage leaf. Foie gras layered with sweet/tart stewed quince jelly also has oodles of charm. His poutine is perfect sweet fresh frites topped with a barbecued garlicky minced lamb kebab. This is the new French cooking, highly detailed but never heavy. Kennedy's new place is très casual in every way the plates are small, the prices easy. Here is a chef at the top of his game, a talented haute cuisine refusenik who opened a wine bar because it's a way to bring great cooking down a social rung.
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